January 1, 2009

Post holiday and post economic meltdown, it's nice to find a few good local Central Coast wineries that provide good value for the money. One of the reasons the wines below are inexpensive compared to the quality in the bottle is that both these vintners are relatively new.

Indian Valley Vineyards, with its vineyard based near San Miguel in Indian Valley, just north of Paso Robles, is also a family operation. Owner Ron Harris had a dream to become a vintner, bought the undeveloped grazing land in 1998 and has been working the property ever since. His Native American heritage is reflected in the names of the wines and the distinct squash blossom logo on the label. He, likewise, hired an old hand as winemaker, Steve Glossner, who spent a number of years at Justin and Adelaida.

• Indian Valley Coral 2004 ($15): The least expensive wine in the Indian Valley line-up is a Bordeaux style blend, primarily cabernet blended with merlot and cabernet franc. Showing ripe red cherry, forest floor and oak on the nose, the robust flavors follow suit with more red cherry and toasty oak, from nearly three years aging in oak barrels. Designed to be enjoyed on release, it's a real quaffer that is accessible and appropriately priced.

• Indian Valley Vineyards Nation 2005 ($25): This wine is merlot based and more serious, as can easily be discerned by its dark extracted color. The fruit on the nose, black cherry, blackberry and boysenberry, is also dark, deep and intriguing. The dark berry flavors come through in spades augmented by cocoa powder, tobacco and wood spice. A certain savoriness, as typified by its herbal elements, run though it, as well as a little menthol lift and the sort of bacon rind effect from extended aging in toasty American oak barrels. Plus, at three years old, its good acidity gives it a freshness and vivacity.

• Indian Valley Vineyards Cab Nation 2005 ($25): In my mind, this is best Indian Valley wine, nearly all cabernet. Dark berry, cherry and cassis drift out of the glass coupled with hints of shoe polish and olive tapenade. Blackberry and black cherry flavors hook up with cocoa powder and a faint twist of dried Italian herbs. For a big, full bodied wine, its fruit is still pliant and generous. Given the ripe fruit coupled with a classic structure, it's a good candidate for cellar aging, though quite easily enjoyed now.